Large Voyager PADD Tutorial

Large Voyager PADD Tutorial

Step 1.
Inspect your kit and make sure all of the parts are there. There should be four body plates, one vinyl sticker, a set of graphics, and a brown LCARS sticker. Please note that ONE of the body plates is for testing your routing skills. You'll need to identify the plate that is for testing. It's the larger, solid plate WITHOUT the little triangular nub on one side.

Step 2.
The first thing to do is pull aside the two plates that need to have their edges routed. The front and back plate. If you do not have a router, or do not want to route your padd plates, you can skip ahead a few steps. If you don't have a router, your best bet is to use sand paper or some files to round out the edges the best you can.

Step 3.
Peel the protective paper off the BACK sides of the panels to be routed. We leave the protective paper on the front for, well, protection! Routing can be a messy operation, and you want to avoid scratching the surfaces as much as possible.

Step 4.
Here's a close up view of that nub you're looking for to help identify the back plate that we want to use. Just so you know, that nub is there to assist in the laser cutting process. But for now, we need to remove this nub, since it's not part of the padd design.

Step 5.
I recommend using files to get rid of the nub. Unlike sandpaper, you can control a file pretty well, and get a nice clean surface.

Step 6.
Here's the back plate with the nub removed.

Step 7.
The next thing we're going to to use join together the back plate and the front plate so that we can make routing much easier. I use a dremel router with a piloted head. This means that I need some surface for the pilot to guide along. Your router set up may be different, in which case you'll need to modify the tutorial. The point is that I'm taping them together so that I can route the edges.
I recommend 3M two sided tape, as shown in the picture here. It's very thin, and very strong. Great product.

Step 8.
Apply the tape to one side of the padd. The arrows show places where I've put the tape. Because it's clear, it's sometimes hard to see... hence the arrows.

Step 9.
Here's the hard part. You need to tape the two plates together, and make sure they are aligned perfectly! This will ensure that the routing is done evenly. If the parts are not aligned properly, peel them apart and start again.

Step 10.
Here's what it looks like after the pieces have been routed.

Step 11.
Now we peel off the protective paper. Use some high grit sandpaper to smooth out the work you did with the router.

Step 12.
Time to start prepping for the paint. Looking ahead, we're going to end up gluing all of these pieces togehter. Glue works best when it's on the surface material, not on top of paint. So we're going to mask off big chunks of the back sides of the plates. Later on, these masked areas will be used to put the glue onto. Clever, eh???

Step 13.
I have discovered through trial and error that painting these babies takes some patience. We start off with a coat of primer on the BACK sides of the plates. When you do this coat, lie the raw plates directly down on newspaper. Do not suspend them above the paper using blocks, or the tops of paint cans. The reason we do this is because you don't want any overspray rebounding off the newspaper onto the underside of the object. You only want to get paint on the back sides.
Once that primer dries, flip the padd plates over and DO suspend them using blocks. This way, any of the overspray will rebound onto the bottom of the padd plates, which will end up being on the inside of the padd, and invisible to the viewer. By suspending the plates for spraying, we can paint the edges, and not worry about the paint sticking to the newspaper.

Step 14.
We now repeat the steps described for priming, but instead use paint. Like my other Voyager era props, I use Plasti-Kote 1004. Get it at Pep-Boys. It is not the exact same color used on the show, but it's a close match. The original color, 7173 has since been discontinued in its original formulation. You can find cans of 7173, but it is much darker than the original.

Step 15.
Let's take a closer look at the back sides. See where all the tape is??

Step 16.
Remove the tape to reveal the plex underneath. How cool is that???

Step 17.
Find the midplate, and peel the protective paper off both sides. If you want to, you can wetsand the edges of this piece to make the shine. I skipped it for this build up, because I think it looks cool the way it is. And besides, I've only got about 20 minutes left to finish this puppy!!!

Step 18.
Get your two part epoxy ready! The prop builders best friend! You can find this stuff in a number of varieties at almost any hardware or hobby store. I recommend anything by Duco.

Step 19.
Mix up some epoxy, and spread some onto the back plate of the padd. You don't need a lot! Unless you want epoxy squirting out all over the place, just put a few dabs on the back plate and spread it around using a popsickle stick. Press the mid plate into place, and make sure it lines up properly. It should sit in the dead center of the back plate. You can use clothes pins to hold the plates in place while the epoxy cures.

Step 20.
Repeat for the front place, and you're in business.

Step 21.
Moving on to the graphics. Cut out the main view screen using a straight edge and an X-Acto blade. Use whatever is comfortable for you.
If you want to coat the graphics with a layer of clear shelf paper, laminate it, or use ChartPak, feel free! it can give it a much more "pro" look. Truth is, the graphics made for the show were often applied as they came straight off the laser printer.

Step 20.
I use a very thin two sided adhesive to attach my graphics. I forget the brand name, but I get it at OfficeMax or Staples. It comes in the little dispenser you see here. Apply it to the back of the graphic in strips.

Step 21.
Repeat the same process for the small graphics for the buttons. Be sure to test fit the graphics before you tape them into place.

Step 20.
Now on to the back side. It's time to adhere the LCARS graphic.

Step 21.
I chose to put mine along the bottom, but you can put yours anywhere.

Step 22.
Last thing to do is peel off the brushed aluminum sticker and put it into place. It should fit exactly over the grey button that is incorporated into the graphics. I recommend that you use a pair of tweezers to gently put the sticker into place. You only get one shot with this. Once the sticker is on, it will be nearly impossible to remove it without causing damage to the graphics.

Step 23.
All done!

	Step 1. Inspect your kit and make sure all of the parts are there. There should be four body plates, one vinyl sticker, a set of graphics, and a brown LCARS sticker. Please note that ONE of the body plates is for testing your routing skills. You'll need to identify the plate that is for testing. It's the larger, solid plate WITHOUT the little triangular nub on one side.
	Step 2. The first thing to do is pull aside the two plates that need to have their edges routed. The front and back plate. If you do not have a router, or do not want to route your padd plates, you can skip ahead a few steps. If you don't have a router, your best bet is to use sand paper or some files to round out the edges the best you can.
	Step 3. Peel the protective paper off the BACK sides of the panels to be routed. We leave the protective paper on the front for, well, protection! Routing can be a messy operation, and you want to avoid scratching the surfaces as much as possible.
	Step 4. Here's a close up view of that nub you're looking for to help identify the back plate that we want to use. Just so you know, that nub is there to assist in the laser cutting process. But for now, we need to remove this nub, since it's not part of the padd design.
	Step 5. I recommend using files to get rid of the nub. Unlike sandpaper, you can control a file pretty well, and get a nice clean surface.
	Step 6. Here's the back plate with the nub removed.
	Step 7. The next thing we're going to to use join together the back plate and the front plate so that we can make routing much easier. I use a dremel router with a piloted head. This means that I need some surface for the pilot to guide along. Your router set up may be different, in which case you'll need to modify the tutorial. The point is that I'm taping them together so that I can route the edges. I recommend 3M two sided tape, as shown in the picture here. It's very thin, and very strong. Great product.
	Step 8. Apply the tape to one side of the padd. The arrows show places where I've put the tape. Because it's clear, it's sometimes hard to see... hence the arrows.
	Step 9. Here's the hard part. You need to tape the two plates together, and make sure they are aligned perfectly! This will ensure that the routing is done evenly. If the parts are not aligned properly, peel them apart and start again.
	Step 10. Here's what it looks like after the pieces have been routed.
	Step 11. Now we peel off the protective paper. Use some high grit sandpaper to smooth out the work you did with the router.
	Step 12. Time to start prepping for the paint. Looking ahead, we're going to end up gluing all of these pieces togehter. Glue works best when it's on the surface material, not on top of paint. So we're going to mask off big chunks of the back sides of the plates. Later on, these masked areas will be used to put the glue onto. Clever, eh???
	Step 13. I have discovered through trial and error that painting these babies takes some patience. We start off with a coat of primer on the BACK sides of the plates. When you do this coat, lie the raw plates directly down on newspaper. Do not suspend them above the paper using blocks, or the tops of paint cans. The reason we do this is because you don't want any overspray rebounding off the newspaper onto the underside of the object. You only want to get paint on the back sides. Once that primer dries, flip the padd plates over and DO suspend them using blocks. This way, any of the overspray will rebound onto the bottom of the padd plates, which will end up being on the inside of the padd, and invisible to the viewer. By suspending the plates for spraying, we can paint the edges, and not worry about the paint sticking to the newspaper.
	Step 14. We now repeat the steps described for priming, but instead use paint. Like my other Voyager era props, I use Plasti-Kote 1004. Get it at Pep-Boys. It is not the exact same color used on the show, but it's a close match. The original color, 7173 has since been discontinued in its original formulation. You can find cans of 7173, but it is much darker than the original.
	Step 15. Let's take a closer look at the back sides. See where all the tape is??
	Step 16. Remove the tape to reveal the plex underneath. How cool is that???
	Step 17. Find the midplate, and peel the protective paper off both sides. If you want to, you can wetsand the edges of this piece to make the shine. I skipped it for this build up, because I think it looks cool the way it is. And besides, I've only got about 20 minutes left to finish this puppy!!!
	Step 18. Get your two part epoxy ready! The prop builders best friend! You can find this stuff in a number of varieties at almost any hardware or hobby store. I recommend anything by Duco.
	Step 19. Mix up some epoxy, and spread some onto the back plate of the padd. You don't need a lot! Unless you want epoxy squirting out all over the place, just put a few dabs on the back plate and spread it around using a popsickle stick. Press the mid plate into place, and make sure it lines up properly. It should sit in the dead center of the back plate. You can use clothes pins to hold the plates in place while the epoxy cures.
	Step 20. Repeat for the front place, and you're in business.
	Step 21. Moving on to the graphics. Cut out the main view screen using a straight edge and an X-Acto blade. Use whatever is comfortable for you. If you want to coat the graphics with a layer of clear shelf paper, laminate it, or use ChartPak, feel free! it can give it a much more "pro" look. Truth is, the graphics made for the show were often applied as they came straight off the laser printer.
	Step 20. I use a very thin two sided adhesive to attach my graphics. I forget the brand name, but I get it at OfficeMax or Staples. It comes in the little dispenser you see here. Apply it to the back of the graphic in strips.
	Step 21. Repeat the same process for the small graphics for the buttons. Be sure to test fit the graphics before you tape them into place.
	Step 20. Now on to the back side. It's time to adhere the LCARS graphic.
	Step 21. I chose to put mine along the bottom, but you can put yours anywhere.
	Step 22. Last thing to do is peel off the brushed aluminum sticker and put it into place. It should fit exactly over the grey button that is incorporated into the graphics. I recommend that you use a pair of tweezers to gently put the sticker into place. You only get one shot with this. Once the sticker is on, it will be nearly impossible to remove it without causing damage to the graphics.
	Step 23. All done!